December 26th and 27th
Day 8 and 9
Somewhere in the Coral/Tasman Sea
Cruise stats:
Swell: 1-2m on day 8, 'Sydney to Hobart' on day 9
Weather: Overcast, 26C on day 8, rainy and 24C on day 9
Crazy golfers in the Atrium: 6
Day 8 doesn't get its own entry. Nothing really happened, except for some shopping and a magician. I bought a Pacific Jewel teddy bear and named him Bijou. The magician, James Callea, was particularly impressive.
Well, at least the ship is standing up straight again. It spent much of the morning with a quite significant Port-side lean, which meant the shower nearly flooded and made it quite an uphill struggle to get out of the cabin. They managed to straighten it in the middle of breakfast, though the rolling is still significant. It is very windy, enough so that they have closed most of the open decks.
We're currently in the Atrium in the centre of the ship, watching some mad people in a putting competition, on a moving floor across multiple levels and smooth wooden floors. Stacks of seasickness bags have begun to decorate the stairwells and hallways, which may be a sign of weather to come.
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
High water
December 25th
Day 7
Isle of Pines, New Caledonia
Cruise stats:
Swell: Unpleasant
Weather: Rainy morning then clear afternoon, 28C
Internet time remaining: 80 minutes
If I ever get the crazy notion that I'd like to spend ten days on a boat again, please, someone slap me around. The days have been fun, but the nights are really getting to me. Last night I didn't get to sleep until 1am, as a result of a combination of significant boat movement and noisy drunks in the hallway outside my cabin. I'm looking forward to getting home, but I suspect the trip back is only going to get worse.
Today was our final stop, the Isle of Pines in New Caledonia. We spent the last of our Francs on history books about the island, and failed to find lunch, again. Took a lot of photos of the animals I found around the island, including a very friendly foal.
Today was Christmas day, and that meant Christmas food. The crew served up a remarkable spread. Dinner conversation was also interesting, and managed to cover both politics and religion.
Day 7
Isle of Pines, New Caledonia
Cruise stats:
Swell: Unpleasant
Weather: Rainy morning then clear afternoon, 28C
Internet time remaining: 80 minutes
If I ever get the crazy notion that I'd like to spend ten days on a boat again, please, someone slap me around. The days have been fun, but the nights are really getting to me. Last night I didn't get to sleep until 1am, as a result of a combination of significant boat movement and noisy drunks in the hallway outside my cabin. I'm looking forward to getting home, but I suspect the trip back is only going to get worse.
Today was our final stop, the Isle of Pines in New Caledonia. We spent the last of our Francs on history books about the island, and failed to find lunch, again. Took a lot of photos of the animals I found around the island, including a very friendly foal.
Today was Christmas day, and that meant Christmas food. The crew served up a remarkable spread. Dinner conversation was also interesting, and managed to cover both politics and religion.
Spiders and Jellyfish
December 24th
Day 6
Mystery Island, Vanuatu
Cruise stats:
Swell: Nauseating
Weather: Mostly sunny, 28C
Number of people in the little orange boats: 100 when used as a tender, 150 when used as a lifeboat (where they put the extra 50 is anyone's guess)
Ugh. I'm having fun during the day but the night-time rolling and bouncing of the boat is beginning to get to me. In future, I think I'll make my holidays more ground and less ocean.
Mystery Island is a pretty place... and thats about it. M went swimming, but I saw the bluebottle tentacles washed up on the shore and decided against it. He got a couple of tiny stings, but I have to wonder how many others got more than just a few red spots. I found a green coconut, but couldn't work out a way of opening it, so I just took a photograph and left it. We went for a walk around the island, saw the WW2 airstrip and the still-functioning 'airport' (all one room of it). Found the massive spiderwebs disconcerting. Left my remaining Vatu in the donation box for the local school. The neighbouring island of Aneityum, which we can see from our balcony, looks far more interesting. It is mostly pine-covered mountains with a tiny fringe of habitable beach. Might be worth coming back to another time.
The dining room continues to amuse me. Each night before we go it, we try to guess who is going to be turned away for being inappropriately dressed. Most nights, we're get it right. Six days in, would've thought they would have learnt by now. Clearly not.
Day 6
Mystery Island, Vanuatu
Cruise stats:
Swell: Nauseating
Weather: Mostly sunny, 28C
Number of people in the little orange boats: 100 when used as a tender, 150 when used as a lifeboat (where they put the extra 50 is anyone's guess)
Ugh. I'm having fun during the day but the night-time rolling and bouncing of the boat is beginning to get to me. In future, I think I'll make my holidays more ground and less ocean.
Mystery Island is a pretty place... and thats about it. M went swimming, but I saw the bluebottle tentacles washed up on the shore and decided against it. He got a couple of tiny stings, but I have to wonder how many others got more than just a few red spots. I found a green coconut, but couldn't work out a way of opening it, so I just took a photograph and left it. We went for a walk around the island, saw the WW2 airstrip and the still-functioning 'airport' (all one room of it). Found the massive spiderwebs disconcerting. Left my remaining Vatu in the donation box for the local school. The neighbouring island of Aneityum, which we can see from our balcony, looks far more interesting. It is mostly pine-covered mountains with a tiny fringe of habitable beach. Might be worth coming back to another time.
The dining room continues to amuse me. Each night before we go it, we try to guess who is going to be turned away for being inappropriately dressed. Most nights, we're get it right. Six days in, would've thought they would have learnt by now. Clearly not.
Port Vila
December 23rd
Day 5
Port Vila, Vanuatu
Cruise stats:
Swell: 1m in open water, none in the harbour
Weather: Pouring rain, 28C
Bottles of duty-free booze purchased: 5
After my disappointment with Noumea, I wasn't sure what to expect out of Port Vila. The experience, however, was completely different.
Vila isn't pretending to be anything its not. It clearly doesn't have the money New Caledonia has, but no-one seems too fussed by that, and it lacks the wealth disparity so obvious in Noumea. Its openness to foreign investment produced some unexpected things, like a windfarm, and a dedication to environmental protection rarely seen in developing countries. The waters of the bay are so clean and clear that from the shore we could not only see the bottom, but school after school of fish. Not bad for a commercial harbour.
Got some bargain duty-free alcohol, the pick of which was black label OP Absolut for $22/L. Also picked up most of my gifts and souvenirs, including two very adorable little dresses for a friend who is expecting twin girls any day now. I found it surprising how many stores took Australian dollars.
Skies opened up on our way back to the ship, got drenched in under a minute. I didn't care, but my camera was foggy for a while afterwards.
The Triton Club need to buy their holiday house here instead of northern Bali. Vanuatu is definitely a place we could spend more time.
Day 5
Port Vila, Vanuatu
Cruise stats:
Swell: 1m in open water, none in the harbour
Weather: Pouring rain, 28C
Bottles of duty-free booze purchased: 5
After my disappointment with Noumea, I wasn't sure what to expect out of Port Vila. The experience, however, was completely different.
Vila isn't pretending to be anything its not. It clearly doesn't have the money New Caledonia has, but no-one seems too fussed by that, and it lacks the wealth disparity so obvious in Noumea. Its openness to foreign investment produced some unexpected things, like a windfarm, and a dedication to environmental protection rarely seen in developing countries. The waters of the bay are so clean and clear that from the shore we could not only see the bottom, but school after school of fish. Not bad for a commercial harbour.
Got some bargain duty-free alcohol, the pick of which was black label OP Absolut for $22/L. Also picked up most of my gifts and souvenirs, including two very adorable little dresses for a friend who is expecting twin girls any day now. I found it surprising how many stores took Australian dollars.
Skies opened up on our way back to the ship, got drenched in under a minute. I didn't care, but my camera was foggy for a while afterwards.
The Triton Club need to buy their holiday house here instead of northern Bali. Vanuatu is definitely a place we could spend more time.
Easily distracted
December 22nd
Day 4
Lifou, New Caledonia
Cruise stats:
Swell: 0.5m
Weather: Bright and sunny, 30C
Vanilla beans: AUS$5 each
This is the Pacific Islands I came to see. White sandy beaches, thick jungle, and French-infused culture. We went ashore today on the island of Lifou, at the village of Easo.
Today started in truly magical style. We were on the balcony early to watch out arrival, when it began to rain and a perfect rainbow formed right in front of us. It was only there for a few minutes, but it was the most stunning I've ever seen.
This morning was our first experience of the ships tender boats. Not exactly a smooth ride, but I suppose they are just lifeboats with engines.
Our tour this morning took us first to a vanilla plantation. We were given a vanilla bean as a souvenir, and although I know we can't take it back, it was pleasant to wander around the jungle/garden of the plantation smelling it, and our clothes will smell good for the rest of the trip.
The second stop was the village of Jokin, on top of the cliffs at the northern tip of the island. We didn't take the 200 stairs down to the bottom of the cliff, but we didn't need to. The view from the top was breathtaking, even if I did spend much of our time there chasing the clouds of butterflies.
The village of Easo itself was pretty, and we finally got out first taste of New Caledonian food, an unidentified snack which turned out to be a kind of banana pancake. Tasty.
Day 4
Lifou, New Caledonia
Cruise stats:
Swell: 0.5m
Weather: Bright and sunny, 30C
Vanilla beans: AUS$5 each
This is the Pacific Islands I came to see. White sandy beaches, thick jungle, and French-infused culture. We went ashore today on the island of Lifou, at the village of Easo.
Today started in truly magical style. We were on the balcony early to watch out arrival, when it began to rain and a perfect rainbow formed right in front of us. It was only there for a few minutes, but it was the most stunning I've ever seen.
This morning was our first experience of the ships tender boats. Not exactly a smooth ride, but I suppose they are just lifeboats with engines.
Our tour this morning took us first to a vanilla plantation. We were given a vanilla bean as a souvenir, and although I know we can't take it back, it was pleasant to wander around the jungle/garden of the plantation smelling it, and our clothes will smell good for the rest of the trip.
The second stop was the village of Jokin, on top of the cliffs at the northern tip of the island. We didn't take the 200 stairs down to the bottom of the cliff, but we didn't need to. The view from the top was breathtaking, even if I did spend much of our time there chasing the clouds of butterflies.
The village of Easo itself was pretty, and we finally got out first taste of New Caledonian food, an unidentified snack which turned out to be a kind of banana pancake. Tasty.
Noumea
December 21st
Day 3
Noumea, New Caledonia
Cruise stats:
Swell: Calm
Weather: Early fog, clearing to bright and sunny, 30C
XPF spent: ₣3060 (as well as another AUS$33)
For a place I've heard a number of people describe as 'more French than France', Noumea is not what I expected. I anticipated a city that was one part Paris, one part Tortuga – what I got was more of a mix of Denpasar and Melbourne. We got off the boat early and did a self-guided walking tour, which is essentially the one in the guidebook with some differences where we either got lost or couldn't be bothered climbing the hill.
Noumea appears to be a city which is changing, but hasn't got there yet. There is a lot of construction going on, but little is new apart from a handful of soulless apartment blocks. It is also a city of a wealth disparity I couldn't quite get my head around, with expensive jewellers next to hole-in-the-wall cafes, and brand-new BMWs parked out the front of dilapidated buildings. The tourist train looked uncomfortable and only vaguely interesting, and we also failed to find lunch. We only stayed until midday, when the cloud burned off and the heat became unbearable. The view from the balcony was good – Noumea is a city which looks better from a distance.
This evening was the first that I was well enough for anything in the evening, so we went to Pirates of the Pacific in the theatre. Cheesy, but funny.
Day 3
Noumea, New Caledonia
Cruise stats:
Swell: Calm
Weather: Early fog, clearing to bright and sunny, 30C
XPF spent: ₣3060 (as well as another AUS$33)
For a place I've heard a number of people describe as 'more French than France', Noumea is not what I expected. I anticipated a city that was one part Paris, one part Tortuga – what I got was more of a mix of Denpasar and Melbourne. We got off the boat early and did a self-guided walking tour, which is essentially the one in the guidebook with some differences where we either got lost or couldn't be bothered climbing the hill.
Noumea appears to be a city which is changing, but hasn't got there yet. There is a lot of construction going on, but little is new apart from a handful of soulless apartment blocks. It is also a city of a wealth disparity I couldn't quite get my head around, with expensive jewellers next to hole-in-the-wall cafes, and brand-new BMWs parked out the front of dilapidated buildings. The tourist train looked uncomfortable and only vaguely interesting, and we also failed to find lunch. We only stayed until midday, when the cloud burned off and the heat became unbearable. The view from the balcony was good – Noumea is a city which looks better from a distance.
This evening was the first that I was well enough for anything in the evening, so we went to Pirates of the Pacific in the theatre. Cheesy, but funny.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
One Martini, Two Martini, Three Martini...
December 20th
Day 2
Still in the middle of the ocean
Cruise stats:
Swell: 0.5m
Weather: Overcast, clearing later, 28C
Martinis consumed: 4
Day 2
Still in the middle of the ocean
Cruise stats:
Swell: 0.5m
Weather: Overcast, clearing later, 28C
Martinis consumed: 4
Sea sickness wristbands – best invention ever. Aside from bruised wrists, I finally feel healthy, even after an unexpected number of martinis. I anticipated that the martini course to provide samples of each drink, not four entire multiple-standard-drink cocktails. And I didn't even drink the first one. Wheeee!!!
We had an unexpected event this evening, sharing a table with a man and his family for his 70th birthday. They very kindly offered cake to everyone on the table. We've had shared tables for each meal today, which has resulted in some interesting conversations. M can find people to talk telecommunications shop with ANYWHERE!
J038, Pacific Jewel
I've been keeping a blog of my cruise, but I haven't been able to post it before now. I'll be adding my entries in over the next few days.
December 18th and 19th
Day 0 and 1
Sydney to... somewhere in the Pacific Ocean
Cruise stats:
Swell: About 1m
Weather: Grey and drizzly, 20C
Cruise demographics: 10% Asian couples, 40% grey nomads, 50% cashed-up bogans
December 18th and 19th
Day 0 and 1
Sydney to... somewhere in the Pacific Ocean
Cruise stats:
Swell: About 1m
Weather: Grey and drizzly, 20C
Cruise demographics: 10% Asian couples, 40% grey nomads, 50% cashed-up bogans
I am particularly impressed with the service here, particularly the cleaning. I got plenty of time to appreciate it last night. No, I neither ate nor drank too much. No, I do not have gastro. No, I don't get seasick. I spent last night curled up on the bathroom floor with a nauseatingly bad migraine. In an environment full of reasons to lose your lunch, I found a novel one. At least this time, it isn't my imagination, the floor really IS moving.
Thankfully, I'm recovering. Choppy seas have made the boat move about a bit, usually just as you take a step or take your hand off the rail, but it isn't too bad. Our cabin has a little bit of luxury in the form of a private balcony, and the fresh air and views have been saving my stomach, not sure I'd be coping without it. M has taken quite a liking to it, although right now its raining so he thinks Fox Sports inside is a better option than reading outside.
Yesterday was a particularly long day. Up at 4am, on the plane at 6, into Sydney at 8:30, lost in Sydney until finding the ship about 10, unable to find a bloody coffee in Darling Harbour until 11, checking in at 11:30, boarding at 12:30 and finally able to collapse in the cabin around 1. Puttered about exploring and unpacking until departure at 4pm. The weather was pleasant, the water was dead calm, and the people on every other boat we went past were drunk. Took plenty of photos of the Harbour.
Migraine aside, I'm very impressed by what I've seen so far. The cabin is bigger than the last hotel room I stayed in, even though aside from the balcony its no bigger than a standard. And the food! We're avoiding the chaos of the buffet in preference for the a la carte dining room, where the food is perfect and the service is better than any restaurant I've ever been to. Given that was the main dining room, I have high hopes for the specialty restaurant we have bookings for tonight.
The dining room has amused me. Its full silver service, with all the cutlery and all the courses. This appears to either intimidate or confuse many of my fellow travellers. I find it refreshingly civilised. My background is working class, but I'm perfectly comfortable with expensive elegance. Watching everyone else try to understand it has been hilarious.
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